It’s not often that I eat something so good that it makes me giggle with delight. It’s also rare that this kind of food-induced joy is served up in a hotel restaurant metres away from a busy roundabout. The scene is the Park Plaza at Westminster Bridge, South London; the man responsible for the smile on my face is Michelin Award-winning French chef Joël Antunes; and in fairness, the busy roundabout is a sling shot’s ping away from Big Ben and the London Eye. The hotel itself is a brand spanking new, grand glass structure which looks particularly impressive after dark.
We found Brasserie Joël tucked down the end of a dark corridor; pretty understated compared to how I’d preconceived Antunes’ anticipated return to London. The last time he took the helm in a kitchen on this island was a decade ago, around the same time he bagged that all important star. Although my initial reaction wasn’t that great, by the time we’d sat down and soaked up our surroundings, I was happy. I liked that there wasn’t even a hint of pretentiousness and that the décor wasn’t too try hard. And the table additions: a lemon thyme plant, tin of French basil-infused extra virgin olive oil – which I am going to seek out, because it smelt so divine; I even liked the striped cotton napkins, reminiscent of something from Grandma’s dresser.
Even the reusable glass bottle topped up with our tap water was interesting, resembling something one might buy from a bric-a-brac stall on Portobello Road and use to decanter homemade lemonade into. These little homely touches, mixed with clean lines, lit up glass walls and spot lighting - cleverly positioned to light up the table and not straight into your eyes as they often tend to - that remove the restaurant from any connotations associated to being housed within a hotel chain. So far, so good.
It was already quite busy when Adam and I arrived, not bad for a Wednesday night at a relatively new restaurant – it opened at the same time as the hotel in May – in the current economic climate, and considering its slightly off the beaten track location. The night’s clientele were an equal mix of t-shirts and cocktail dresses, twos and groups, and a solo diner, with only his laptop bag seated in front of him for company.
The fairly simple menu changes daily with lots of emphasis on seasonal ingredients, and although understandably largely French, additions such as NY steak and Devon crab salad ensure there should be something here to please everyone. We were pleasantly surprised by how reasonably priced it all seemed, starters from £7, mains from £13 to £30. This also extended to the wine list which offered a good choice by the glass and a bottle starting price of £16; clearly sectioned by an extensive list of light, medium and full-bodied new and old world wines, so you could wing it on a first date if you’re too proud to consult the sommelier. Relocated to another part of town and in a building of its own, Brasserie Joël would be a lot dearer.
My only complaint is the lack of vegetarian options. If I was that way inclined, I wouldn’t be overly enamoured with the two/three pasta or rice dishes on offer. As a meat-eater, the plethora of wonderful-sounding offerings on the menu was enough to send me into an indecisive daze. I was really hungry; I just didn’t know what I fancied. We deliberated for quite a time whilst supping a glass of bubbly and tucking into the warm rustic breads and creamy French butter (so good, I noted the brand so I could stock up for home), and some freshly made ‘Aubergine Caviar’, a delicious dip made using cooked aubergine, garlic and olive oil.
Not long after we’d finally ordered our dishes, our starters arrived. The chef’s special Roast Saddle of Rabbit for me and Lobster Cobb Salad for my friend. Everything about my dish was enjoyable: tender flavoursome rabbit with a lovely soft centre, the accompanying artichoke barigoule, or stew to you and I, and peppery rocket salad perfectly complimented the meat and left me very excited about my next course. Adam, who was so intrigued by the description of the lobster starter he abandoned his usual meat favourites, was quiet with contentment as he delicately made his way through the winning ensemble; which included avocado, quail egg, bacon and cheese.
The tables were turned in the final food round when my Fricassée of Strawberry, another chef’s special, was placed in front of me. Yes, my dear friend’s Rum Baba dessert looked and tasted impressive enough, but mine: beautifully sweet liquor-fried berries, vanilla seed specked vanilla ice cream and delightful mini donuts, was something else. He pretended not to be jealous of my choice, but I could tell he was.
Fuelled by espressos and petit fours, we finished the evening with a quick snoop behind the semi-opaque wall I had been sitting against – something we’d been intrigued by all eve. We were surprised to discover a nicer room about the same size again, with round tables looking out on to the impressive London skyline, and a mature olive tree, standing grand and wise in the centre. I couldn’t help but feel sorry for this abandoned space, all dressed up and nowhere to go. Though it’s early days for Brasserie Joël and once word travels I predict a very different picture.
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, London, SE1 7UT
+44 (0)20 7620 7272
www.parkplaza.com/westminster
Review published on The Culinary Guide - July 2010
